Security Plumbing

Sink Odors:

Sink odors occur from build up of food debris inside you garbage disposal. They also occur due to build up of hair and other debris in your sink traps. To eliminate these odors, place ice cubes and lemon peels in the disposal and let it run for about 30 seconds, then rinse it with cold water for about 20 seconds.

No Hot Water:

First check to insure that the gas is turned on to the water heater. If the gas valve is on and the gas is on to the house, check to see if the pilot light is lit. If the pilot light is lit, refer to the operating manual for instructions on lighting the pilot light. If the pilot light is lit and the water heater is still not heating it is safest to contact us (your local, licensed, plumber) to check further.

Disposal Tips:

Do's:
1. Grind food waste with moderate flow of cold water.
2. Grind small amounts of peelings from citrus fruits (1/4 of an orange) to freshen up your drain.
3. Flush your disposal to allow for cleaning by allowing the disposal and cold water to run after grinding or dumping dishwater.
4. Use a disposal cleaner or degreaser or deodorizer as needed.
Don'ts:
1. Do not use hot water when grinding food waste. It is ok to drain hot water between grinding periods
2. Do not turn off the disposal or the water until grinding is completed.
3. Do not grind fibrous materials like cornhusks, artichokes, onionskins, celery, etc. to avoid possible drain blockage.
4. Never overload the grinding chamber as this can overload the motor and cause it to stop.

Noisy Gas Water Heater:

The popping sound is caused by a mineral build up on the bottom of the water heater that traps water between the tank and the mineral. When the water is being heated it turns this trapped water into steam. The steam then escapes or explodes through the mineral causing the popping sound.

Air Gap on top of your Sink "Spits":

This is probably due to something restricting the drainage line. Make sure the line from the air gap is not kinked and that nothing is partially blocking it where it connects to the drain.

Bathroom faucet drips:

Could be a loose washer The pressure holds it down when no other faucet is running water and the lower pressure let's it rise up a bit when other water is used.

Drains:

• Place a strainer over kitchen and bathroom drains if they do not already have one; this will prevent hair, pieces of soap, and other debris from clogging drains. Clean the strainer as needed.
• Unclog a drain mechanically rather than chemically when possible.
• Use chemical drain cleaners sparingly, especially if your pipes or traps are brass, steel, or cast-iron; some chemicals may corrode metal pipes. Try this instead: pour a cup of baking soda followed by a cup of vinegar down your drain every month.
• The drains in showers and in bathroom sinks typically need extra care; pour two or three gallons of boiling water down each bathroom drain about once a month to clear out hair and greasy particles.
• Every week or two remove sink and tub pop-up stoppers and rinse them off.
• Every three or four months remove the overflow plate on the tub.
• Then pull up the pop-up assembly to reach the spring or rocker arm.
• Remove accumulated hair and rinse thoroughly.
• If your shower drain is plugged up try a plunger first. If the plunger doesn't unplug the drain, insert a plumber's helper ("snake") down the drain.
• Prevent drain clogs by putting a lint trap on your washing machine discharge hose.

Faucets:

• Repair or replace a leaky faucet promptly.
• Be sure to check under sinks for moisture or leaks. Even a slow leak can waste as much as 15 or 20 gallons of water a day. But a leak not only wastes water; it can eventually ruin your faucet or even your cabinets and floors.
• Leaky faucets are ordinarily caused by seals which are dirty or worn. You may either clean or replace the worn parts, or you may want to install a new faucet.

Hoses:

• Switch all hoses to steel braided hoses
• Don’t leave hot water in kitchen or shower hoses. The hoses will last longer if you run cold water through them after using hot water.
• Prevent drain clogs by putting a lint trap on your washing machine discharge hose.
• Put new washers in all your hoses twice a year.

Stop High Water Bills:

• Check faucets for dripping water. Fix a leaky faucet promptly. Be sure to check under sinks for moisture or leaks.
• Periodically check your toilets for leaks:
  -Place a few drops of food coloring in the tank - not the bowl. A couple of tablespoons of instant coffee or Kool-Aid will work too.
  -Check the toilet after about thirty minutes. If the water in the bowl has some of the color in it, the tank is leaking and the stopper and valve seat may need to be replaced.
• Check for underground leaks or undetected leaks in the home:
  -Turn off the main water valve inside your home and then go outside and check your water meter. If it is still turning you may have an underground leak.
  -Alternatively, write down the numbers on your water meter at the beginning of a period when your home is going to be unoccupied for a few hours. Check the meter when you return; if the numbers have changed, they may be a leak somewhere inside the home.

Gas Water Heaters:

Your water heater consumes energy! If your water heater is larger than you need, you may be spending more money on gas than necessary. But of course if your water heater is too small, you may run out of hot water during peak use periods.

The following chart will help you to determine the size of the water heater you need in your home. Simply estimate how many gallons of hot water you will need during the course of the hour when there is maximum demand for hot water in your ho use.

If your water heater displays a ASHRAE / EIS rating of 90, it is energy-efficient and you do not need additional insulation.

• To keep your water heater running efficiently, drain the sediment that accumulates in the bottom of the water heater at least twice each year. Open the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater and drain it into a bucket until the water runs clear (at most it would be four or five gallons).

Not the Same Mold Story

By Mark Weinberger

It wasn’t the usual morning drive to work several months ago when I tuned in to the one of those yuck-it-up to wake you up radio talk shows. It was my profession’s turn to take a pie in the face that day. No matter; attorneys, politicians, and fashion models have had their turn – today it was ours. I do mold remediation.

So what is all this hype and hysteria about mold? A few years ago, we didn’t hear anything about this stuff beyond it being a food wasting nuisance, and now it’s making headlines. Black mold, killer mold, and toxic mold, are just a few of the terms found in the media lately. Are these words intended to scare us or get our attention? What we really need is a level headed approach to mold. Here are a few typical questions and answers to do just that.

Q: Mold has been around as long as we have, it’s even referenced in the Bible, so why is it such a problem now?

A: That’s true. Mold has been around for all of these years. However, the reason we are hearing about it now has to do with changes in our building materials and building techniques. Since the energy crisis, we have learned to build “tighter”, more energy efficient buildings. Unwanted moisture from plumbing leaks, openings or overflows can become trapped in walls, closets or cabinets along with the heated or conditioned air we want. When this trapped moisture finds a food source such as paper on drywall, wood or even dust or dirt, mold spores have everything they need to start growing. This can happen in the first 24 to 48 hours.

Q: Mold is everywhere indoors and out. Why is it a problem?

A: It is true. Mold is an essential part of nature. Vegetation would not decay into nutrients for new growth without it, various foods, beverages and types of medication would not exist. However, active mold growth or a high spore counts beyond the normal background amount can be a problem. Of the 100,000 or so types of mold that have been identified, only about 1/10 of that produce micro-toxins that may be harmful to some people.

Q: Is Black mold the same as Toxic Mold?

A: It is important to note that molds can not be identified by the naked eye or by color alone. A qualified industrial hygienist can usually identify mold samples by either viewing them under a microscope or after growing a culture. Not all black molds are toxic, nor are all toxic molds black. An Industrial Hygienist can provide testing.

Q: When is mold remediation necessary?

A: Mold remediation is usually necessary when mold is actively growing or the amount of indoor mold exceeds the background level. An industrial hygienist’s report is the surest way to determine if either of these conditions exist. In addition to recommending whether a mold remediation is necessary, a thorough report will also provide a protocol. The protocol may include information on the location of the contamination and the methods the IH wants followed.

Q: Basically, what is a Mold Remediation?

A: Basically, a mold remediation is not an attempt to kill mold, but more accurately an attempt to remove it. Mold remediation should include steps to isolate the contamination and prevent spreading it to unaffected areas of the home or building. This is achieved through setting up plastic barriers, managing air flow and pressure differentials between the contaminated and uncontaminated areas. It should then focus on removal of mold by disposing unsalvageable contaminated building materials like drywall and insulation, then, hepa vacuming, scraping or sanding the remaining structure. Lastly, a good cleaning of the remaining structure is done. Fungicides are sometimes used only after removal and cleaning as protection from a reoccurrence of mold growth. Maintaining safe levels of moisture throughout the process is also essential.

Q: Since I can’t see the mold, how do I know if the mold remediation was successful?

A: Clearance testing by a qualified industrial hygienist is really the only way to know if the job was done successfully. The hygienist will issue written documentation confirming that safe levels were achieved and what those levels were at the time of testing. Be sure that your contractor agrees that the job is not complete until it passes clearance testing and that he is prepared to stick with the job until done.

Q: How much should I expect to pay if I need mold remediation?

A: The absolute best way to control the cost of mold remediation is to avoid or mitigate water damage. Have a plumber check plumbing fixtures such as water heaters, toilets, angle stops, supply lines, pressure regulator, washing machine hoses and refrigerator supply lines. He can suggest preventive maintenance measures (learn more here: http://www.security-plumbing.com/resources/maintain_sched.html) that can prevent release of water in you home. If there is a water intrusion in your home, get an IICRC certified water damage firm on the job as soon as possible to mitigate the damage. The longer you wait, the further and deeper water will saturate into the structure and the longer it will take to dry out. Remember, mold can start to grow in the first 24 to 48 hours, so act responsibly.

The cost of the job obviously depends on the extent of contamination. Remember, the total job will include the cost of testing, remediation, and finally structural repairs. It is a good idea to have a contractor provide the remediation and/or the repairs depending on the bid, but keep the testing with a separate entity to maintain objectivity. As with any home improvement project, get enough bids until you are comfortable.

Q: How should I choose a mold remediator?

A: As with any home improvement project over $500, you should use a licensed contractor. The California State Licensed Contractor’s Board maintains a web site so you can check to see that the license is in good standing. It’s also a good idea to see that the contractor is certified by one of the various agencies involved with indoor air quality. A list of websites is listed at the end of this article. The Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, and Restoration IICRC has compiled standards for mold remediation and water damage restoration. Ask the potential contractor if he is familiar with these standards and is a certified mold remediator.

To learn more about these indoor air quality issues visit the following websites:

American Board of Industrial Hygiene
Indoor Air Quality Association, Inc.
American Industrial Hygiene Association
American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists
United States Environmental Protection Agency
American Lung Association
Federal Emergency Management Agency
Indoor Air Quality Information Site